This first work of a new vintage is a decisive factor for the yield and quality of a wine. Without pruning, the vine would sprawl uncontrollably and grow new canes every year from the buds of each of last year's shoots, which would continue to spread out in tiers while the lower canes become woody. As the grapes are only ever formed on one-year-old wood, pruning ensures a balance (physiological equilibrium) between yield (generative growth) and growth (vegetative growth) without too much old, unproductive wood being formed. The choice of the appropriate method depends on the soil type (fertile/infertile), the vine training (single stake, wire frame, pergola), the climate (humid, dry), the grape variety (fertility, tendency to coulure), the rootstock and local conditions.
The ideal time for winter pruning is the last stage in the annual vegetation cycle, the winter dormancy (sap rest); in the northern hemisphere on frost-free days in early spring from January to February, in the southern hemisphere from July to August. The cycle of the vine then begins anew with budding. There are different methods with individual legal regulations in many wine-growing countries, mainly for the production of quality wines. These can vary depending on the region or even smaller areas such as vineyards and individual rows of vines. In Champagne, for example, four forms are authorised. In Friuli, the Simonit & Sirch-MethodeSimonit & Sirch...
The glossary is a monumental achievement and one of the most important contributions to wine knowledge. Of all the encyclopaedias I use on the subject of wine, it is by far the most important. That was the case ten years ago and it hasn't changed since.
Andreas Essl
Autor, Modena