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Sauvignonasse

The white grape variety originates from southwestern France; the name means "similar to Sauvignon". Synonyms grouped by countries are Mosler (Germany); Sauvignon Vert (Chile); Blanc Doux, Cinquien, Sauvignon à Gros Grain, Sauvignon de la Corrèze, Sauvignon Gros, Sauvignon Vert (France); Friulano (2nd main name), Malaga, Occhio di Gatta, Occhio di Gatto, Tai (3rd main name), Tai Bianco, Tocai, Tocai Bianco, Tocai Friulano, Tocai Italico, Tocai Italico Friulano, Trebbianello, Tuchì (4th main name), Uva Bianca Antica (Italy); Istarski Tokay, Zeleni Sauvignon (Slovenia). The exact origin is the Gironde in southwestern France, where it was never cultivated on a larger scale. It was often grown together with Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Today, only remnants exist. The variety was introduced in the early 19th century in northern Italy (Friuli) and was long referred to as Tocai. It was intended to exploit the popularity of Tokaji. According to one hypothesis, the variety originates from Hungary and is identical to the Tokaji variety Furmint, which was allegedly introduced by Count Ottelio di Ariis in 1863. According to a second hypothesis, the variety was brought from Friuli to Hungary by a family named Formentini. According to a third hypothesis, Patriarch Bertoldo di Andechs sent Tocai cuttings to Hungarian King Bela IV in the 13th century. However, the variety has nothing to do with Furmint. Pierre Galet had long equated it with Sauvignonasse, which was confirmed by DNA analyses in 2003. The parentage is unknown. According to DNA analyses, it is not a direct descendant of Sauvignon Blanc, as one might suspect from the name. According to DNA analyses conducted in 2012, it is a parent of Saint-Pierre Doré. The variety was a crossing partner of the new varieties Fleurtai and Soreli. Despite some identical synonyms or morphological similarities, it should not be confused with the varieties Furmint (northern Italy), Muscadelle (Sauvignon Vert in California), Riesling (Argentina and Chile), or Sauvignon Blanc (Argentina, Chile, France, Russia), which has often been the case in the relevant countries. In South America, Sauvignonasse and Sauvignon Blanc were planted in many vineyards in mixed plantings. The ampelographer Giovanni Dalmasso proposed the name Tocai Friulano in the 1930s to avoid confusion with Tokaji. However, Hungary did not agree. After long legal disputes, there was a decision by the EU in 2002 that the name Tocai Friulano could only be used until March 31, 2007. Nevertheless, the Italian authorities allowed Friuli winemakers to market the 2006 vintage again under Tocai. The reason for the controversial approval was the laborious search for the future name of the variety. For years, winemakers could not agree despite the impending ban. Now the grape variety in Friuli-Venezia Giulia is only called Friulano, while in Veneto it is called Tai (the Japanese-sounding name was created by omitting the letters "oc") and only in the DOC area San Martino della Battaglia is it called Tuchì. The early to mid-ripening, high-yielding vine is susceptible to Botrytis, grape rot, Esca, and both powdery mildew types. It produces golden-yellow, floral white wines with aromas of herbs, citrus, and almonds. They are considered less aromatic but fuller-bodied and higher in alcohol than those from Sauvignon Blanc. The variety is mainly grown in Italy in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, but also in the regions of Lazio, Lombardy, and Veneto. It is permitted in the DOC/DOCG wines Bianco di Custoza, Breganze, Colli Euganei, Collio Goriziano, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Corti Benedettine del Padovano, Friuli Annia, Friuli Aquileia, Friuli Grave, Friuli Isonzo, Garda, Lison, Lison-Pramaggiore, Merlara, Piave, Riviera del Brenta, Rosazzo, and San Martino della Battaglia. The area under cultivation in Italy amounts to a total of 2,503 hectares, with a constantly declining trend (in 2000 it was 4,517 hectares). In Slovenia, it occupies 231 hectares. Here, there were similar naming problems as in Italy. Initially, Točai was proposed, but this was not recognized by the EU as in Italy. The name Friulano is not used in Slovenia. The name Zeleni Sauvignon is not accepted by all winemakers, and the wine is marketed under fanciful names such as Gredic, Jakot, or Pikotno. Further stocks exist in Russia and Switzerland (0.3 ha). Overseas, there are Argentina (424 ha), Australia (1 ha), Chile (658 ha), and the USA (44 ha). In 2016, a total of 3,861 hectares of vineyard area were reported. The variety ranks 133rd in the global grape variety ranking (Kym Anderson). Source: Wine Grapes / J. Robinson, J. Harding, J. Vouillamoz / Penguin Books Ltd. 2012 Pictures: Ursula Brühl, Doris Schneider, Julius Kühn Institute (JKI)

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Markus J. Eser

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