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Rainwater

A special type of Madeira; see there.

The Portuguese archipelago of Madeira, with Funchal as its capital, covers a total of 801 square kilometres. It is located in the Atlantic Ocean 550 kilometres north of the Canary Islands, which belong to Spain. Madeira is 951 kilometres from the Portuguese mainland and 737 kilometres from the coast of Africa at the level of Morocco. 1,183 kilometres to the northwest is the Azores archipelago, which also belongs to Portugal. The largest island, Madeira (741 km²), together with the island of Porto Santo (42.5 km²) and the uninhabited archipelago of IlhasDesertas (14 km²), form the Madeira archipelago, as well as the Autonomous Region of Madeira with the likewise uninhabited Ilhas Selvagens. Madeira was formed in several volcanically active phases and consists of jagged volcanic rock, especially on the coast.

Madeira - Landkarten

History

The Madeira archipelago was discovered in 1420 by the navigator João Gonçalves Zarco (1380-1467), who found a densely forested island (Madeira means "island of the forest"). The Portuguese set fire to the island and the fire raged for seven years. Although this destroyed almost all the vegetation, the wood ash and the already existing volcanic soil created ideal conditions for viticulture.

Towards the end of the 16th century, commercially significant viticulture is documented. The harbour in Funchal quickly developed into a strategically important stopover for all ships on their way to Africa, Asia and South America. This is also where the ships were supplied with wine. However, these usually spoilt on the long sea voyages. For this reason, spirits distilled from sugar cane were gradually introduced to preserve the wines in particular. However, this did not become the norm until the middle of the 18th century.

A Madeira wine was reported as early as 1478. In this year, George Plantaganet Duke of Clarence (1449-1478), brother of the English King Edward IV (1442-1483), was sentenced to death for conspiratorial activity, greed and violence. He was given the choice of execution and allegedly decided in favour of death by drowning in a barrel filled with malmsey in the Tower. However, it is possible that the "drowning" refers to the fact that he was a heavy drinker throughout his life. In any case, he was not killed by beheading, the usual method of execution for noblemen, as a later exhumation proves.

Vinhos de Torna Viagem

The special method of production, also known as Madeirisation due to its typical taste and colour, came about by chance in the 17th century when large quantities were exported by ship from Funchal to South America and other colonies by the Dutch. It was realised that the longer the journey took and the longer the ship spent in a hot, tropical climate, the better the wine became.

The extreme temperature fluctuations in particular contributed to the typical flavour of Madeira wine. At that time, however, the rocking movements of the ships were thought to be the cause. Therefore, many ships were loaded with the wine and sent to the East Indies and back for the sole purpose of production (thus crossing the equator twice). The wines were called "Vinhos de torna-viagem" (wines make a journey) or "Vinho da roda" (roda = to turn/rotate) and are also documented on the labelling of old Madeira bottles (TVE).

Madeira - Vinhos de Torna Viagem - Fass und Schiff

Popularity in the USA

The impetus for the trade came in the late 17th century when large quantities of wine were needed for the new Portuguese colonies in South America (Brazil). The colonisation of America under the rule of the English King Charles II (1630-1685) also brought Madeira into fashion on the North American east coast. There it became a coveted and expensive object. The American Declaration of Independence in 1776 was solemnly sealed with a Madeira. The first US President George Washington (1732-1799) enjoyed a Madeira every day with dinner. The founding of the capital Washington D.C. was also celebrated with a Madeira. In the 19th century, the wine was so popular in the USA that special events (Madeira parties) were organised and clubs were founded (the Madeira Club of Savannah-Ohio, which still exists today, is legendary).

Wine-growing areas

The wine-growing area covers 500 hectares of vineyards and is divided into three sub-zones. These are Câmara do Lobos, São Vicente and Santana. The IGP area Terras Madeirenses (country wines), which covers the entire region, is hardly utilised. The DOC wines (quality wines) are categorised with different designations:

  • Madeira - for fortified wines (the classic Madeira)
  • Madeirense - for non-sparkling wines and sparkling wines (both make up less than 10% of production)

Climate & Soil

The climate is influenced by the Gulf Stream. In the north there is frequent rainfall, whereas in the south it is subtropical. The prevailing wind from the north-east causes high humidity, which means there is a risk of fungal diseases and rot. The average daily maximum temperature varies between 19 °C in January and February and 26 °C in August and September. The levadas (open irrigation systems), which were built in the 15th century, transport water from the rainier north to the vineyards in the south. The island is of volcanic origin, which is why the basalt and tuff soils are rich in organic material.

Madeira production

The wine regulations are under the supervision and control of the IVBAM (Instituto do Vinho, do Bordade e do Artesanato da Madeira), which also runs a museum. This emerged from the Junta Nacional do Vinho (the so-called Wine Council) in 1979. This...

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Dr. Christa Hanten

For my many years of work as an editor with a wine and culinary focus, I always like to inform myself about special questions at Wine lexicon. Spontaneous reading and following links often leads to exciting discoveries in the wide world of wine.

Dr. Christa Hanten
Fachjournalistin, Lektorin und Verkosterin, Wien

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